Friday, October 17, 2014

Color Me Pretty Part 2 - Cosmetics Recipes

See the previous post Color Me Pretty Part 1 - Making Cosmetics for background information and details about making powdered make-up.

Loose Pink Blush Powder

1g Titanium dioxide

2g Kaolin
2g Magnesium Stearate
1.5g Red mica
2g Pearl white mica
18g Talc
4g Corn starch

Blend the first 5 ingredients with a mortar and pestle. Add each of the remaining ingredients blending well after adding. You may need to adjust the color by adding more red or white mica, until the desired color intensity is achieved. Fill jars.

Mineral Eye Shadow Powder

1g Corn starch
7g Talc
11g Mica powder
2g Magnesium Stearate
5g Mica pigment of choice

Blend all ingredients with a mortar and pestle. Fill jars.

Lip Color

Lip color can come in many forms – lipstick, lip gloss, and tinted lip balm. There are a few factors to consider for each. Lipstick should be easy to apply, not bleed around the mouth, and should feel moist on the lips. Lip gloss should also be easy to apply, have a wet look on the lips, and provide sheer coverage. Lip balm should provide protection on the lips, which softens and conditions.

Some ingredients that you may need in creating lip color are as follows:

  • Waxes: Create a support structure for the stick. Common waxes include carauba, beeswax, candelilla, and ozokerite wax.
  • Oils and Butters: These provide the moisturizing properties to the stick. Castor oil is very popular as it creates a nice shine. Plant oils and butters, such as grapeseed and shea, are fine as well, but are more expensive. 
  • Colors: Can include FD&C and D&C dyes, pigments, and micas. 

Burgundy Lip Gloss

40g Jojoba Gel
7ml Jojoba Oil
.5g Vitamin E
.25ml Brown Oxide
2g Pearl white mica
2g Deep red mica
.5ml Lip-safe preservative (optional)
Flavor (optional)

Blend the jojoba gel and oil with the Vitamin E. Add the remaining ingredients to the jojoba mixture and blend well. Adjust your color as needed by adding more colorants until the desired color is achieved. Place in lip gloss vial. If too thick to package easily, heat to 125°F.

There are many cosmetics you can make yourself, from skin care lines to lip pencils and mascara. The following resources can help you to learn more about the different aspects of making your own colorful line of cosmetics.

Cosmetic Ingredient Suppliers:

The Conservatorie
Many items can be purchased from your favorite soap supplier.

Cosmetic Books:

Make Your Own Cosmetics: Recipes for Color Cosmetics By Karen and Thomas Bombeli
The Complete Book of Lipsticks by Jan Benham

Resources for Labeling and GMP:

FDA Cosmetic Labeling Guide
FDA Cosmetic GMP
Soap & Cosmetic Labeling by Marie Gale
Good Manufacturing Practices for Soap and Cosmetic Handcrafters by Marie Gale
Bath Alchemy Lab - online classes in labeling and GMP

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Thursday, October 16, 2014

Free Soap Cigar Band Wrappers - Fall Designs

Enjoy a set of three free soap cigar band wrappers in multiple fall designs for use on your soaps. Simply download, print, write in your soap details, wrap around soap, and secure in the back with tape.

These cigar band wrappers are free for personal or commercial use, however, the designs may not be sold. 


To download free PDF, click here

We regularly update our website with free resources, from links for good content to freebies made by Bath Alchemy Lab. Join our monthly newsletter to get updates when new resources have been added.

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Color Me Pretty Part 1 - Cosmetic Recipes

History of Cosmetics

Civilizations have used forms of cosmetics for centuries in religious rituals, to enhance beauty, and to promote good health. Cosmetic usage throughout history can reveal a civilization's practical concerns, such as protection from the sun, acknowledgment within a class system, or simply for beauty.

In as early as 10,000 BCE, men and women in Egypt used scented oils and ointments to clean and soften their skin and mask body odor.  In 4000 BCE, Egyptian women applied forms of copper and lead to their faces for color and definition.  In 3000 BCE, Chinese people began to stain their fingernails with colors used to represent social class, and Grecian women painted their faces with white lead and applied crushed berries as rouge.  

Over 200 years ago, women had a full line of colorful cosmetics from powders to lipsticks to nail polish.  Who would have guessed?  Some of what was used for coloring the skin was downright dangerous, such as lead, while others were things still used today, such as oxides.  Thankfully, today we have options and lots of them, including creating our own cosmetics for both personal and commercial use.  While you can make anything from anti-aging products to liquid foundations and everything in between, the easiest place to start if you have never made cosmetics before is colored make-up.  Cosmetics can be quite complex.

Making Cosmetics

Before beginning the journey in making colorful cosmetics, it is important to know a few things.  First, you must follow good manufacturing practices, especially when it comes to sterilizing your equipment.  If water is in the recipe, such as a liquid foundation, or can be introduced to the container it is in, such as a scrub, you need to use a preservative.  There are finally some promising natural preservative systems on the market for small businesses. 

You need to be careful about how you represent your product and its label.  Cosmetics must follow the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) guidelines in the US.  If you list a sunscreen in your product, it is no longer a cosmetic, instead it is a drug in the eyes of the FDA.  Be sure you know labeling requirements.  See the resources at the end of this article.  Now let’s take a look at making color cosmetics.

Powdered Mineral Make-up

Years ago, mineral make-up became very popular in the mainstream market.  Since it is often touted as ‘all natural’ (although it isn’t always), people jumped onto the band wagon and have not gotten off.  There is something about using natural and simple products with colors from the earth that make mineral makeup very intriguing.  Even better, much of the makeup is very simple to make.  In fact, you can simply dip an eye shadow brush into a container of mica that you use to make soap and be ready for a night on the town, however, adding ingredients that make it stay or keep it slick will yield a better product.

Some ingredients that you may need in creating mineral make-up are as follows:
  • Talc:  A natural mineral consisting of silicon, oxygen, and magnesium used as a filling agent to provide texture and coverage
  • Titanium Dioxide: A white crystalline powder used for coverage and in sunscreens
  • Zinc Oxide: Produced from zinc ore, a naturally occurring mineral used for coverage and in sunscreens
  • Kaolin: A natural mineral derived from aluminum silicate used for coverage, oil absorption, and to prevent breakouts
  • Magnesium Stearate: A powder made of magnesium and stearic acid use to improve slip and adhesiveness
  • Corn Starch: Controls oils in the skin

To create a good face powder, you should use a combination of these ingredients with mica to provide good coverage and nice texture, as well as preventing break outs.  Commercial products have fragrance added.  This is optional, but not everyone likes the earthy scent of the minerals.  Also, these recipes are not set in stone.  You can tweak the ingredients and their amounts and feel free to replace mica colors and even blend to get the perfect shade.  You will need a mortar and pestle for some of these formulas.

Loose Mineral Face Powder

4g Titanium dioxide
8g Zinc oxide
6g Pigment blend (see resources)
55g Talc
7g Magnesium Stearate
16g Mica Powder
1ml Fragrance (optional)

Blend the first 3 ingredients with a mortar and pestle.  Add each of the remaining ingredients blending well after adding.  Fill jars.

More Recipes in Part 2

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Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Textured Soap Tops

There are lots of ways to texture a soap top.  No matter the method you choose, you will need a heavy or moderate-heavy trace to achieve the best results.  Here are ten textures and how to get them.  All you need is a spoon and a thin implement from around the house (we used a paintbrush handle).  Do not feel that you can only add a texture to the top of soap in a log mold.  Lots of textures can be added to soaps in slab molds as well.

Pull and Snake
1A – Using the back of a spoon, slide downward along the edge of the mold.  Tilt the spoon so the back is face down.  Then lift and pull towards the center of the mold.  Repeat down both sides.  1B – Using a thin tool, ‘draw’ a snaking pattern back and forth down the center of the mold.  You can make a figure eight pattern for this design as well.

Twist and Lift
2A – Place a spoon into the soap straight up and down.  Twist the spoon in a near 360° motion.  As you do this, lift upward.  2B – Repeat this in rows until the entire surface is covered in circular divots and peaks. 

Drawing Patterns
3A – You can draw any pattern into to the soap surface.  The thicker the soap, the more chiseled the appearance.  In this design, start by placing a thin tool into the corner of the mold.  Drag away from the corner and make a loop, come down, over, and make another loop across the length of the mold.  3B - Do this in several rows until you have a pattern covering the soap.

Meringue Peaks
4A – Using the back of a spoon (or spatula), press into the soap, then lift.  As you lift, the soap will be pulled from the surface.  When the soap breaks from the spoon a peak is formed just like on a lemon meringue pie. 4B – Repeat to cover the whole soap surface.

Whisk Twist and Lift
5A – This is one of my favorites and one of the fastest.  Instead of using a spoon, you use a whisk to make the design.  Hold the whisk straight up and down.  Press the whisk into the soap.  Twist it in a near 360° motion.  As you do this, lift upward.  5B – Repeat this in rows until the entire surface is covered in circular twisting peaks. 

Pulled Ridge
6A – Using the back of a spoon, slide downward along the edge of the mold.  Tilt the spoon so the back is face down.  Then lift and pull to the center of the mold.  Repeat down both sides.  6B – The idea is to create a ridge down the center of the mold.

Mini Peaks
7A – You are not confined to peaks made only by spoons, spatulas, and whisks.  Use a thin tool to create a mini peak.  Holding a thin tool vertically, press into the soap, then lift.  As you lift, the soap will be pulled from the surface.  When the soap breaks from the tool, a peak is formed. 7B – Repeat to cover the whole soap surface.  This one reminds me of grass. 

Thin Linear Peaks
8A – You would be surprised to see how cool this looks in person.  Using a thin tool, lay it flat across the soap surface and lift keeping the tool level.  As you lift, the soap will be pulled from the surface.  When the soap breaks from the tool a peak is formed. 8B – Repeat to cover soap surface.  You can make the linear peaks from side to side, as shown, top to bottom or even diagonally.

Swirl and Lift
9A – Holding a thin tool vertically, place it into the soap and draw a small circular swirl a couple of rotations.  As you do this, lift upward.  9B – Repeat this in rows until the entire surface is covered in circular peaks. 

Linear Waves
10A – Using a spatula, press the thin edge into the soap surface.  Gently lift and simultaneously spin the spatula in a 180° rotation.  As you do this, a peak that resembles a wave is formed.  10B – Repeat to cover soap surface.  You can do this from side to side, top to bottom, or even diagonally across the mold.  It’s a nice one to use with ocean designs.

You can highlight any of your textures by sprinkling or painting with colorful micas.  

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Friday, October 10, 2014

New Online Gourmet Autumn CP Soapmaking Class

We are working on some special seasonal soapmaking courses with Bramble Berry. Our first seasonal theme is inspired by fall. It contains 5 soap designs that demonstrate one or more intermediate to advanced soapmaking techniques.
  • Pumpkin Spice Swirl - uses drop swirl technique
  • Twisted Licorice - layering followed by soap decorating
  • Salted Caramel - layering with salted top
  • Indian Corn - uses nonpareil design
  • Turkey Feather - a controlled divider layer with a twist

While our classes at Bath Alchemy Lab follow a progressive curriculum building upon each new skill learned, this course is more of a sampler of various techniques from several different courses we offer. It is a great way to learn a variety of techniques in a short class. While the lessons are thorough, if you find that you are lacking some of the theory and skills you need to be successful, you can optionally take any of our full courses at Bath Alchemy Lab. This class uses a different platform than our usual classes.  Instead, it is similar in layout to the Soap Crafting Club courses by Bramble Berry.

Since this course is designed especially for Bramble Berry customers, all demonstration videos show Bramble Berry tools in action using their quality ingredients. The themed lessons showcase colors and fragrances of the season.

You can purchase this class on the Bramble Berry website, click here.

Check out our video teaser.

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Thursday, October 9, 2014

Soapmaking Favorites: Bevelers and Trimmers by LiluSoap Tools

I had the pleasure of meeting LiChing of LiluSoap Tools at the Handcrafted Soap and Cosmetic Guild’s 2014 Conference.  We had booths neighboring each other and quickly hit it off.  She designed 2 stainless steel soap bevelers and trimmers.  After one demonstration, I had to have it.  It has become a favorite tool of mine.  

In this short video clip, I demonstrate both the Beveler and the Beveler/ Trimmer.  You can find both on this website, click here. Here are a few noteworthy features:

  • High quality, stainless steel construction to last a lifetime
  • Trims and bevels perfectly
  • Trimmer shaves very thin layers of soap
  • Blade-less beveler is safer
  • Rubber strip fits over trimmer 'blade' when not in use
  • Easy to clean (I put mine in the dishwasher)

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